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if you got the skills and the equipment to do it, i say give it a try. if not, then you might have to replace the board, which should only require screw drivers at most. alternatively you could look around locally for any electronic guys rendering their services. anyone that does vintage video game modding or owns arcades and old pcs are good with that. 

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On 6/15/2019 at 2:57 AM, enad said:

So I have a dead USB port in a laptop and unfortunately, it's connected to the motherboard instead of a daughterboard.  Is the general consensus that I'd be better off soldering a new port or replacing the board outright?

I mean if you're going to try replacing the board anyway; you could always try and fix it just for the learning experience if nothing else. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, not sure where else to ask this. This seems like a good enough place. I've been modding Skyrim and some of the mods require a script extender. I've been provided a link to download it, but I'm not sure exactly how to work it. I assume there are methods to figure it out, as I haven't had too much trouble with modding in the past. I just want to be sure I know what I'm dealing with before I download anything. 

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i dont have much experience with skyrim myself but shouldnt be that tough to figure out. 

-make sure the link is from a reputable source first. 

-then you'll download the file and it will be in your download folder.

-unzip the file to a location you want. 

-open up the read me.doc and briefly go over it

-they might instruct you to move the downloaded files in a specific location in the games folder. 

 

that pretty much should be the gist of it. 

viper or whatever he's calling himself nowadays should be the resident expert on the subject so you should ask him if you are having trouble. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not a PC but maybe someone knows the answer: we switched the TV in the main room connected to the TiVo and it's been giving us problems.

If you turn the TV on, that output doesn't display on the full TV and there is no audio. If I unplug the HDMI cable and plug it back in, the screen displays properly and the audio kicks back in. Problem is I have to do this every time I turn the TV on. Any ideas why?

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On 9/5/2019 at 3:23 PM, Admin_Raptorpat said:

Not a PC but maybe someone knows the answer: we switched the TV in the main room connected to the TiVo and it's been giving us problems.

If you turn the TV on, that output doesn't display on the full TV and there is no audio. If I unplug the HDMI cable and plug it back in, the screen displays properly and the audio kicks back in. Problem is I have to do this every time I turn the TV on. Any ideas why?

i should start by saying i have no tivo experience but i do have some experience with av setup. can you go into the tivo settings? maybe you have it like on an auto adjust setting that the tv cant pick up on its first try. maybe just set the tv to the resolution you want like 1080p. im wondering if newer cables can help? like maybe the newer tvs have a harder time with older cables? thats what i would look into first. 

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4 hours ago, Tricolor said:

Well, I recently bought a new pc for internet sex but my computer ain't come with a dick hole. Is that a separate peripheral or did I buy the wrong pc? Please help! My grandma keeps bugging me about it!

You downloaded the wrong program, you need to download something from iwanttofuckmypc . com, once you do that the disc drive of your pc will allow you to insert your penis.

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13 hours ago, Hello There said:

You downloaded the wrong program, you need to download something from iwanttofuckmypc . com, once you do that the disc drive of your pc will allow you to insert your penis.

Hey man, I'm not that kind of girl! Besides, my brother is the one with the cd shaped penis...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got malware on my chrome browser. From a music downloading site. lol This is why I can't keep up with these comsci kids. lmao 

Anyways I tried downloading Malwarebytes and Kaspersky free to get rid of the malware, but they don't detect anything. Idk, it might be because it's attached to my browser so I don't know how to get rid of it. 

I also did a Google reset and clean up specifically targeted towards harmful software and they couldn't detect it. lol 

Edited by jackiemarie90
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6 hours ago, jackiemarie90 said:

I got malware on my chrome browser. From a music downloading site. lol This is why I can't keep up with these comsci kids. lmao 

Anyways I tried downloading Malwarebytes and Kaspersky free to get rid of the malware, but they don't detect anything. Idk, it might be because it's attached to my browser so I don't know how to get rid of it. 

I also did a Google reset and clean up specifically targeted towards harmful software and they couldn't detect it. lol 

so usually i just run a disk cleaner and an anti virus program when i try to get rid of something. you should always be in safe mode first. it's a bunch of different ways of getting there.  windows 10 makes it kinda annoying to get into safe mode.

 

anyways type safe mode on the search bar> click on "change advance startup options">  clink on the "restart now" tab > this brings you to a blue screen click on "troubleshooting"> click "advance option" > click "startup settings"> click on restart> last screen should 9 diffrent options  1-9. select option 5 by pressing the f5 key on your keyboard. 

 

once you restart it should have you in safe mode. now you can finally download and run bitbleach

https://www.bleachbit.org/

you should be able to remove anything under the chrome folders now or anywhere else for that matter without too much hassle. once done you can also run malwarebytes again and windows defender for good measure. i recommend you delete malwarebytes and reinstall it again before running it. all in safe mode. 

Edited by Distortedreasoning
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On 9/19/2019 at 9:35 PM, jackiemarie90 said:

I got malware on my chrome browser. From a music downloading site. lol This is why I can't keep up with these comsci kids. lmao 

Anyways I tried downloading Malwarebytes and Kaspersky free to get rid of the malware, but they don't detect anything. Idk, it might be because it's attached to my browser so I don't know how to get rid of it. 

I also did a Google reset and clean up specifically targeted towards harmful software and they couldn't detect it. lol 

I highly recommend you post a screenshot of what you're talking about. Also Adblock+ has been long compromised as it's integrity is laughable now, Ublock Origin is what people are using, it's available for all browsers. I recommend switching to that immediately.

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On 9/20/2019 at 3:39 AM, Distortedreasoning said:

so usually i just run a disk cleaner and an anti virus program when i try to get rid of something. you should always be in safe mode first. it's a bunch of different ways of getting there.  windows 10 makes it kinda annoying to get into safe mode.

 

anyways type safe mode on the search bar> click on "change advance startup options">  clink on the "restart now" tab > this brings you to a blue screen click on "troubleshooting"> click "advance option" > click "startup settings"> click on restart> last screen should 9 diffrent options  1-9. select option 5 by pressing the f5 key on your keyboard. 

 

once you restart it should have you in safe mode. now you can finally download and run bitbleach

https://www.bleachbit.org/

you should be able to remove anything under the chrome folders now or anywhere else for that matter without too much hassle. once done you can also run malwarebytes again and windows defender for good measure. i recommend you delete malwarebytes and reinstall it again before running it. all in safe mode. 

mhm yea, sometimes browsers extensions do wind up uninstallable directly through windows.


 

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As a general rule of thumb, the best way to avoid viruses is

#1 don't install things that do not have multiple comments stating the file works, etc.

#2 keep rule 1 in mind heavily when the file is an .exe

#3 trust places like sourceforge, github, reddit, etc for finding application links and software to use for your computer

#4 is the most important rule - don't download porn.

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On 9/5/2019 at 6:23 PM, Admin_Raptorpat said:

Not a PC but maybe someone knows the answer: we switched the TV in the main room connected to the TiVo and it's been giving us problems.

If you turn the TV on, that output doesn't display on the full TV and there is no audio. If I unplug the HDMI cable and plug it back in, the screen displays properly and the audio kicks back in. Problem is I have to do this every time I turn the TV on. Any ideas why?

Yes. I'm actually familiar with this. It's a short on the board. Whatever chip inside and pathways that are responsible for switching your audio input is fucked up. It will never get worse, and it will never get better. You are unfortunately stuck with this. By any chance, is it a Panasonic?

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On 9/19/2019 at 9:35 PM, jackiemarie90 said:

I got malware on my chrome browser. From a music downloading site. lol This is why I can't keep up with these comsci kids. lmao 

Anyways I tried downloading Malwarebytes and Kaspersky free to get rid of the malware, but they don't detect anything. Idk, it might be because it's attached to my browser so I don't know how to get rid of it. 

I also did a Google reset and clean up specifically targeted towards harmful software and they couldn't detect it. lol 

One more thing about downloading music. I used to do it a lot, you should really consider using Spotify  for everything. I have been subscribed for multiple years, and now I'm getting it free from either hulu or amazon, I forget which one.

Anyway if you are going to continue downloading music, qbittorrent is a safe, open source bittorrent program that has long replaced utorrent [again, another compromised program],  use piratebay (I'm not joking), if you go directly to wikipedia's page for piratebay, it always shows the active domain they're using regardless of whatever legal situation they are in. UH, kickasstorrents... you might have to dig around for their official domain, also @Quackers - talk to him, I'm pretty sure he still pirates a ton of stuff.

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3 hours ago, Age of S'jet said:

Yes. I'm actually familiar with this. It's a short on the board. Whatever chip inside and pathways that are responsible for switching your audio input is fucked up. It will never get worse, and it will never get better. You are unfortunately stuck with this. By any chance, is it a Panasonic?

It is a Phillips. I haven't gotten around to swapping back the other TV/cable box to confirm the problem is between that specific TV and that specific TiVo box, but other stuff plugged in via HDMI (like the switch) don't have the same problem when first changing to that input.

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3 hours ago, Age of S'jet said:

As a general rule of thumb, the best way to avoid viruses is

#1 don't install things that do not have multiple comments stating the file works, etc.

#2 keep rule 1 in mind heavily when the file is an .exe

#3 trust places like sourceforge, github, reddit, etc for finding application links and software to use for your computer

#4 is the most important rule - don't download porn.

or pay for your porn

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4 hours ago, Admin_Raptorpat said:

It is a Phillips. I haven't gotten around to swapping back the other TV/cable box to confirm the problem is between that specific TV and that specific TiVo box, but other stuff plugged in via HDMI (like the switch) don't have the same problem when first changing to that input.

Sometimes odd things happen due to improper voltages, or just overall cheap electronics interfacing with each other. My xbox 360 years ago is what did it to my Panasonic tv.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/20/2019 at 12:39 AM, Distortedreasoning said:

so usually i just run a disk cleaner and an anti virus program when i try to get rid of something. you should always be in safe mode first. it's a bunch of different ways of getting there.  windows 10 makes it kinda annoying to get into safe mode.

 

anyways type safe mode on the search bar> click on "change advance startup options">  clink on the "restart now" tab > this brings you to a blue screen click on "troubleshooting"> click "advance option" > click "startup settings"> click on restart> last screen should 9 diffrent options  1-9. select option 5 by pressing the f5 key on your keyboard. 

 

once you restart it should have you in safe mode. now you can finally download and run bitbleach

https://www.bleachbit.org/

you should be able to remove anything under the chrome folders now or anywhere else for that matter without too much hassle. once done you can also run malwarebytes again and windows defender for good measure. i recommend you delete malwarebytes and reinstall it again before running it. all in safe mode. 

Finally had time to do this after my midterm. And so far I think it worked. lol Thank you! But I still embarassed myself when people were making fun of the pop ups. >___> At least it's fixed now. lol

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5 minutes ago, jackiemarie90 said:

Kinda, it would mix between weight loss and hot milfs in your area. And it was ad with a girl in her underwear that pop up in front of one of my mentors trying to help with Calculus homework. T__T

yeah i seen the fuck hot bitches in your area ones lol. never click on those jackie.

 

i got a similar story too but too embarrassed to tell it here lol xD

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1 minute ago, Distortedreasoning said:

yeah i seen the fuck hot bitches in your area ones lol. never click on those jackie.

 

i got a similar story too but too embarrassed to tell it here lol xD

I really didn't this time! LMAO I really went to one of those youtube video to mp3 converter pages.

Now I'm curious:ph34r:

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14 hours ago, Distortedreasoning said:

ok i messaged you. 

anyways viper is right. best anti virus is just safe web browsing habits. 

Ok, so like I thought it worked, but I had to change the set up a bit. When I went into safe mode, even with networking, it wouldn't let me connect to the internet wirelessly. So I thought I could download the bleach kill program before and enter safe mode and it did work last night. But again, in front of my my mentor the pop ups happened. lmao They aren't as frequent at least.

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54 minutes ago, jackiemarie90 said:

Ok, so like I thought it worked, but I had to change the set up a bit. When I went into safe mode, even with networking, it wouldn't let me connect to the internet wirelessly. So I thought I could download the bleach kill program before and enter safe mode and it did work last night. But again, in front of my my mentor the pop ups happened. lmao They aren't as frequent at least.

safe mode with networking means you need a networking cable to get online. there should be a safe mode with wireless mode that lets you use the internet with wireless connections. 

 

ok then sometimes these things can linger on but still shouldnt be too much trouble.

this time download rkill

https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/rkill/

 

do the bleach and another run windows defender again all in safe mode. the rkill should do the job.

anyways sorry for your embarrassment lol xD

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 9/24/2019 at 4:26 PM, Admin_Raptorpat said:

It is a Phillips. I haven't gotten around to swapping back the other TV/cable box to confirm the problem is between that specific TV and that specific TiVo box, but other stuff plugged in via HDMI (like the switch) don't have the same problem when first changing to that input.

Could also be something as simple as an HDCP error. Temporarily breaking the physical connection can fix the problem, but it comes back because the source device and the display device don't initiate a proper "handshake" upon startup, and therefore will not communicate.

I've had this issue pop up with cable boxes hooked up to projectors, and have had *limited* success placing an HDCP bypass box between the devices, which can be had for $25 from Amazon. It's really only a band-aid, but it could be the cheapest "fix" available when your only options are new hardware.

Edited by wacky1980
Just realized the age on this post. Hope you figured it out by now 😬
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  • 2 weeks later...

dat wifi ping speed!

ping.png.8400fe8281718e66b024f22344d48fd5.png

anyways, i'm in the process of building a low/mid gaming pc. been putting off a new rig for a very long time, and i haven't personally built a pc since the 90's. oof. it's also gonna replace my video editing pc, which will be a very nice upgrade from the old intel i5 2320 with 8gb ram and onboard graphics (hey, it was free to me and i'm not picky). needless to say, premiere pro does not function very well at all on that pc. so here's my thoughts:

ryzen 2700x cpu (yeah, previous gen. i already own a loose one so i'm sticking with it for now)
radeon rx570 8gb gpu
corsair lpx 32gb ram (probably overkill for this build but meh)
evga 700w gold psu (again, probably overkill for this build)
msi b450 mobo
1tb ssd (and i have a couple tb of hdd to toss in there if need be)

i should be able to build this out for around $800...maybe less if i hit a couple good black friday deals. mobo supports 3rd gen ryzen so i can always upgrade the cpu later, and i can swap out a better gpu later if the need arises. but i'm so used to just getting by that i think this build will be plenty for the time being. does this look solid to you folks, or am i overlooking something obvious?

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iPhone won't charge. Sorta. It hit 0% then wouldn't respond to any power cord. I let the battery completely discharge then put it back on the cord. It went up to 3% then shut off and gave me the blinking battery symbol. Figured I was in a reboot loop which I've fixed before. Then the battery symbol stopped appearing. Tried letting it discharge again. Still no battery symbol or anything.

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5 hours ago, ITasteLikeSex said:

iPhone won't charge. Sorta. It hit 0% then wouldn't respond to any power cord. I let the battery completely discharge then put it back on the cord. It went up to 3% then shut off and gave me the blinking battery symbol. Figured I was in a reboot loop which I've fixed before. Then the battery symbol stopped appearing. Tried letting it discharge again. Still no battery symbol or anything.

The only fix I can think of you being able to try is to make sure the port isn't gunked up. 

 

My brother kept having problems with his charge ports until I took a look at one of his current phone and cleaned out the port with a needle.
Lightning is quite a bit different than micro, though.

Edited by Sieg67
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On 11/25/2019 at 10:25 PM, wacky1980 said:

dat wifi ping speed!

ping.png.8400fe8281718e66b024f22344d48fd5.png

anyways, i'm in the process of building a low/mid gaming pc. been putting off a new rig for a very long time, and i haven't personally built a pc since the 90's. oof. it's also gonna replace my video editing pc, which will be a very nice upgrade from the old intel i5 2320 with 8gb ram and onboard graphics (hey, it was free to me and i'm not picky). needless to say, premiere pro does not function very well at all on that pc. so here's my thoughts:

ryzen 2700x cpu (yeah, previous gen. i already own a loose one so i'm sticking with it for now)
radeon rx570 8gb gpu
corsair lpx 32gb ram (probably overkill for this build but meh)
evga 700w gold psu (again, probably overkill for this build)
msi b450 mobo
1tb ssd (and i have a couple tb of hdd to toss in there if need be)

i should be able to build this out for around $800...maybe less if i hit a couple good black friday deals. mobo supports 3rd gen ryzen so i can always upgrade the cpu later, and i can swap out a better gpu later if the need arises. but i'm so used to just getting by that i think this build will be plenty for the time being. does this look solid to you folks, or am i overlooking something obvious?

if seen some pretty crazy prices for the ryzen 7 2700x during black friday. hope you got in on one if not theres cyber monday which could also bring more good deals. the ram for sure is overkill and can go with 16gb if you want to save even more. gpu, not a big fan of the rx570, those are pretty dang old now. id keep an eye out for something stronger and more current gen during sales. 

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On 12/1/2019 at 12:18 AM, Distortedreasoning said:

if seen some pretty crazy prices for the ryzen 7 2700x during black friday. hope you got in on one if not theres cyber monday which could also bring more good deals. the ram for sure is overkill and can go with 16gb if you want to save even more. gpu, not a big fan of the rx570, those are pretty dang old now. id keep an eye out for something stronger and more current gen during sales. 

i got the r7 2700x for $170 which i think was pretty decent (not the best deal out there but i'm content). found some slightly faster RAM from crucial yesterday so i went with that instead. hopefully i can oc to make use of it! the gpu is really the only place where i compromised. and the only reason i did is because i found it for $110 (about $70 off). if it doesn't give us what we want, it won't hurt much to upgrade it in a month or so when i'm not buying an entire pc worth of components. 

also, i ended up going with a 1tb nvme ssd instead of sata because i got a good deal on one today. and i picked up an extra 4tb hdd because it was on sale too. so storage should be good. the mobo has been a pain to lock in because it went out of stock everywhere at the same time. i ended up grabbing one from newegg for a little more than i wanted, but at least i'll have it this week so oh well. some rgb fans, better heatsinks, and a wifi card all on the way as well, and i think we're all set. should hopefully get it built over the weekend, and i'll post pics if/when it happens.

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3 hours ago, wacky1980 said:

i got the r7 2700x for $170 which i think was pretty decent (not the best deal out there but i'm content). found some slightly faster RAM from crucial yesterday so i went with that instead. hopefully i can oc to make use of it! the gpu is really the only place where i compromised. and the only reason i did is because i found it for $110 (about $70 off). if it doesn't give us what we want, it won't hurt much to upgrade it in a month or so when i'm not buying an entire pc worth of components. 

also, i ended up going with a 1tb nvme ssd instead of sata because i got a good deal on one today. and i picked up an extra 4tb hdd because it was on sale too. so storage should be good. the mobo has been a pain to lock in because it went out of stock everywhere at the same time. i ended up grabbing one from newegg for a little more than i wanted, but at least i'll have it this week so oh well. some rgb fans, better heatsinks, and a wifi card all on the way as well, and i think we're all set. should hopefully get it built over the weekend, and i'll post pics if/when it happens.

i think i saw the 2700x for a bit cheaper but not much. either way still a solid cpu at that price point. im not a big fan of the gpu but at that price its hard to do much better. i almost jumped on some of those nvme deals myself but decided to not do any shopping this year. cyber monday was really good this year for pc builders. 

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9 hours ago, Distortedreasoning said:

i think i saw the 2700x for a bit cheaper but not much. either way still a solid cpu at that price point. im not a big fan of the gpu but at that price its hard to do much better. i almost jumped on some of those nvme deals myself but decided to not do any shopping this year. cyber monday was really good this year for pc builders. 

i had about 30 items in an amazon wish list and 3camel tracker for the last couple weeks so i could keep an eye on prices. with the exception of the ssd, not a damn thing went on black friday OR cyber monday sale. there was some price shuffling on thanksgiving, but nothing too crazy. the cpu went as low as $160 after i bought it at $170. and the GOD DAMN mobo is back in stock at amazon today for $99 with prime and no tax, after i bought it at newegg last night with tax+shipping. too late to cancel that order now too, so i ate shit there.

i think i'm out the door at around $900 altogether. now if everything works and i'm not missing screws or anything dumb like that...

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got damn. didn't realize how tiny those nmve cards are. anyways, i got about halfway built last night with the parts that had already arrived. got psu, fans, and nvme drive + heatsink today. if i get time this evening, i'm gonna attempt to get the rest of the hardware dropped in place and try to boot into bios to make sure we're looking good.

still trying to decide what to do as far as os. i really don't wanna drop $100 on a new win10 license, and i'm not too interested in a linux distro because it's been awhile and i'd be rusty. thinking i can just use the license from the old pc i'm retiring. that's still a thing we can do, right?

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11 hours ago, wacky1980 said:

got damn. didn't realize how tiny those nmve cards are. anyways, i got about halfway built last night with the parts that had already arrived. got psu, fans, and nvme drive + heatsink today. if i get time this evening, i'm gonna attempt to get the rest of the hardware dropped in place and try to boot into bios to make sure we're looking good.

still trying to decide what to do as far as os. i really don't wanna drop $100 on a new win10 license, and i'm not too interested in a linux distro because it's been awhile and i'd be rusty. thinking i can just use the license from the old pc i'm retiring. that's still a thing we can do, right?

you should be able to do that. im not too sure though. you might have to give ms a call. you could get windows 10 for free. youll just have an annoying reminder to get the retail version on the bottom right of the screen. 

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