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Replacing tiles advice


Mix

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Who here is handy?  @wacky1980  @Rogue Alphonse

I've been putting off replacing the tiles after the plumbing work that was done a couple of months ago.

You can see where they filled the cement back in and I went ahead and removed the broken tiles on the left.

How do I go about leveling off the cement area to the same height as the area where the tiles were?

I was thinking about trying to fill it in with mortar, but I don't know if that's the correct move especially 'cause some areas are a little higher, so I need to chisel those down, I guess.....thoughts?

20190210_153335.thumb.jpg.704115a4f3fda457e00f88dfb8e972cd.jpg

Edited by Mix
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4 minutes ago, GreatBallsOfJizz said:

If you were pretending to play tetris this pic should have been in the middle.

It took a while to remove the broken tiles and grout with hand tools.....

I told myself as I was taking these pictures that whoever made the tetris joke would pay.....:RoboAngry: pay dearly 

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I'd chisel that old tile remnant from the floor, then vacuum it out good. Then come back with a thinset mortar and spread it evenly to get it level. Then lay the tile and fill in with grout. That seems to be the easiest way to me.

Edited by midnight
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2 minutes ago, midnight said:

I'd chisel that old tile remnant from the floor, then vacuum it out good. Then come back with a thinset mortar and spread it evenly to get it level. Then lay the tile and fill in with grout. That seems to be the easiest way to me.

That's what I was going for based on the DYI videos i'd seen, but how do I insure the end result is level?

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1 minute ago, midnight said:

Use a level on it before it has time to set. Soon as you place each tile, check to see if it's level, with a level.

ok, so you see the brown area where the broken tiles I removed used to sit, that is the level I want the cement area to be on.

The parts that are lower I can fill in with thinset, but there are some parts that are higher. Is chiseling them off the best method? 

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2 minutes ago, Mix said:

ok, so you see the brown area where the broken tiles I removed used to sit, that is the level I want the cement area to be on.

The parts that are lower I can fill in with thinset, but there are some parts that are higher. Is chiseling them off the best method? 

That's what I'd do. It should be easy to chisel out. Probably be just as easy to use a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Once you get the remaining fragments of tile out of the way, you can always use some 80 grit sand paper and maybe speed up the process of removing any old glue that may be sticking up, or any small pieces of tile. You should be fine to do that by hand, but if you have an electric or air sander, it would only take a second.

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4 minutes ago, midnight said:

That's what I'd do. It should be easy to chisel out. Probably be just as easy to use a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Once you get the remaining fragments of tile out of the way, you can always use some 80 grit sand paper and maybe speed up the process of removing any old glue that may be sticking up, or any small pieces of tile. You should be fine to do that by hand, but if you have an electric or air sander, it would only take a second.

alright, sounds like a plan....

How much thinset do you think i'll need?

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14 minutes ago, Mix said:

alright, sounds like a plan....

How much thinset do you think i'll need?

Without actually being there, I can't accurately say. Not much though. Take into account the thickness of the tile, and go from there. Eye ball it on the first one and once you get it right and set, and it's level, you should get a good enough measurement to proceed quicker with the rest of the tiles.

Edited by midnight
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The general rule of thumb for tile setting is that that replacement area should be at least the depth of the tile itself  + 1/4" for the mastic.  You will need a small rotary hammer with a bushing tool and a 3" chisel (those are designed for removing thinset), first "bushing" the high spots then scraping it down relatively smooth necessary depth.  Are you confident the plumber did a decent job with the patch?  Did he dowel the concrete at all?  Also, do you have the properly grooved trowel for applying the mastic with?

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2 hours ago, scoobdog said:

The general rule of thumb for tile setting is that that replacement area should be at least the depth of the tile itself  + 1/4" for the mastic.  You will need a small rotary hammer with a bushing tool and a 3" chisel (those are designed for removing thinset), first "bushing" the high spots then scraping it down relatively smooth necessary depth.  Are you confident the plumber did a decent job with the patch?  Did he dowel the concrete at all?  Also, do you have the properly grooved trowel for applying the mastic with?

I'm as confident as I can be without knowing the difference between a bad job and a good one. These guys came highly recommended and they had a good rep on yelp....and I have water again, soooo yeah....

I looked up what dowel means and I don't think he did that...is it important?

I do have the quarter inch by quarter inch trowel, yes...

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On 2/11/2019 at 6:04 PM, Mix said:

I'm as confident as I can be without knowing the difference between a bad job and a good one. These guys came highly recommended and they had a good rep on yelp....and I have water again, soooo yeah....

I looked up what dowel means and I don't think he did that...is it important?

I do have the quarter inch by quarter inch trowel, yes...

A dowel in concrete is a piece of rebar drilled into existing and meant to connect existing to new.  It's a way of ensuring that the new concrete doesn't settle over time and displace beneath the tile, leading to a crack.

At any rate, great job.  Looks good.

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