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UnevenEdge

Tool restoration


Israeli_Jericho941

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No, it's not about a second term for el presidente Trump...

Just picked up an old Proto 1/2"-drive ratchet (#5449) manufactured probably before the mid-sixties.

Outside of the ratchet looks great, got some dried grease to clean up, but it's the inside that needs some work.

I was thinking naval jelly to remove the rust there (since it's better to convert the rust rather than to remove it), then a good greasing to the innards, but was just wondering if anyone had different or additional tips to restoring old tools?

Edited by Israeli_Jericho941
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52 minutes ago, JehutyNinja said:

I don't, I've only dabbled in repairing them, when I worked at Sears... They love their Craftsmen.

Only complaint was that damn squirrelly ass ball bearing. Had a tool for them, never around, would just use a Flathead

I don't own one with a ball bearing inside the housing so I can't even imagine...

Only ball bearing on this one was the one on the driver shaft (what ever it's called), and that had seized up pretty well.

Just dropped some 3-in-1 on top and pressed down with a flathead and it worked it's way in.

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23 hours ago, Israeli_Jericho941 said:

No, it's not about a second term for el presidente Trump...

Just picked up an old Proto 1/2"-drive ratchet (#5449) manufactured probably before the mid-sixties.

Outside of the ratchet looks great, got some dried grease to clean up, but it's the inside that needs some work.

I was thinking naval jelly to remove the rust there (since it's better to convert the rust rather than to remove it), then a good greasing to the innards, but was just wondering if anyone had different or additional tips to restoring old tools?

I like to use electrolysis and then either steel or copper wool with some polish on the outside or for any chrome type finish of that nature.

Usually "heat pruf" or white lithium grease on the inside, but then again, this is a 12 year old 1/2" drive I constantly use with a pipe on the end of it and is held together with electrical tape.

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2 minutes ago, Rogue_Alphonse said:

I like to use electrolysis and then either steel or copper wool with some polish on the outside or for any chrome type finish of that nature.

Usually "heat pruf" or white lithium grease on the inside, but then again, this is a 12 year old 1/2" drive I constantly use with a pipe on the end of it and is held together with electrical tape.

Right on. Any advantages to electrolysis vs other methods?  I was interested in converting the rust or stopping the process completely.  The oxalic acid in Bar Keepers Friend removes the rust, but that's about it I think.

I used white lithium grease on the innards, it's already started to bunch up though and I just put in a light coating.

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3 minutes ago, Israeli_Jericho941 said:

Right on. Any advantages to electrolysis vs other methods?  I was interested in converting the rust or stopping the process completely.  The oxalic acid in Bar Keepers Friend removes the rust, but that's about it I think.

I used white lithium grease on the innards, it's already started to bunch up though and I just put in a light coating.

There are a bunch of videos on the different solutions you can use but I think those are like naval jelly where they will take chrome of too. Did you use spray lithium or the stuff from a tube?

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15 minutes ago, Rogue_Alphonse said:

There are a bunch of videos on the different solutions you can use but I think those are like naval jelly where they will take chrome of too. Did you use spray lithium or the stuff from a tube?

Yeah that's why I stayed away. Loctites version of Naval Jelly is not safe for chrome according to their website so I stayed way.

I was reading up on Oxalic Acid baths and they seem pretty legit. A lot of bikers use them on their chrome frames. It's a 24-hour process though.

And used the stuff in the tube since it's what I had laying around.

I emailed the folks at Proto's (now Stanley Tools) torque wrench repair headquarters to see what lube they recommended with respect to the tools age.  Customer service directed me to them.

Not sure if they'll be able to help but it's worth a shot.

Edited by Israeli_Jericho941
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It looks to be in damn good shape, even with what you just did. I'd think it's fine the way you have it honestly, just keep it dry xD

 

Gah, I can't find the video where someone used all the different things, but I found this again... the most wholesome video on YouTube. (10:57 I will never get over xDxD )

 

 

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1 hour ago, Rogue_Alphonse said:

It looks to be in damn good shape, even with what you just did. I'd think it's fine the way you have it honestly, just keep it dry xD

 

Gah, I can't find the video where someone used all the different things, but I found this again... the most wholesome video on YouTube. (10:57 I will never get over xDxD )

 

 

Haha, this old man was great.

Thanks for sharing

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10 hours ago, Israeli_Jericho941 said:

Yeah that's why I stayed away. Loctites version of Naval Jelly is not safe for chrome according to their website so I stayed way.

I was reading up on Oxalic Acid baths and they seem pretty legit. A lot of bikers use them on their chrome frames. It's a 24-hour process though.

And used the stuff in the tube since it's what I had laying around.

I emailed the folks at Proto's (now Stanley Tools) torque wrench repair headquarters to see what lube they recommended with respect to the tools age.  Customer service directed me to them.

Not sure if they'll be able to help but it's worth a shot.

Proto was unable to help on this one.

They sell a repair kit for this wrench since it's still in production though. I might pick one up just to replace the springs which have lost some bounce back over the years.

Might see if my buddy can sandblast and powder coat the gear/drive assembly as well.

Think I found a new hobby at least lol.

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