Houston pizzeria crowned 'Best Pizza Joint' in Esquire list

[Gemini]

Nonno's, from the crew behind Nobie's, is mastering Chicago tavern pie

(Story via Houston Chronicle's website.)

Just months after opening, a Houston pizzeria is already earning national accolades.

On Tuesday, Esquire unveiled its 2023 list of the Best New Restaurants in America. The list includes 50 restaurants plus three "special category" entries. Among those three is a fresh face in the Houston pizza scene: Nonno's Family Pizza Tavern.

Nonno's in Montrose, named Esquire's "Pizza Joint of the Year," has quickly garnered fans throughout the city. The 90s-themed joint that opened in August comes from Sara and Martin Stayer, the minds behind Montrose's Nobies and The Toasted Coconut. With its old-school Pizza Hut lamps and arcade games, Nonno's won over Esquire with good vibes and an even better menu featuring thin crust, Chicago-style tavern pizza.

Pie classics like cheese are of course offered, but Nonno's also puts a fresh spin on traditional favorites. Try the Meat Head, which is Nonno's take on a "meat lovers" pizza that stacks cheese, pepperoni, sausage and capicola. Or go for the Hawaiian-themed Maui Wowee, which pairs pineapple with smoked jalapeño and Spam. Want something lighter? Try the Broccoli Garlic, which features marinated broccoli, garlic butter and ricotta; or the Lean Green 'N Mean, which has pesto, kale, arugula and sunflower seeds. If pizza isn't your game, Nonno's does offer cheffed-up entrees like mussels and chicken piccata, as well as cacio e pepe and mushroom risotto.

"Nonno's in Houston evokes the retro pizza parlors of my youth, Pac-Man and all, but the pizza is much, much better," wrote Omar Mamoon in the Esquire writeup.

When reached by Chron, Sara Stayer said her team was shocked to learn the news of the honor.

"We are so proud and thankful for all of the work that everyone has contributed to make Nonno's what it is," she said. "We're having a blast, and we couldn't do it without our wonderful team."

Meanwhile, the main top-50 list included Austin newcomer Este. Esquire praised chef Fermín Nuñez's seafood-focused restaurant (which in Spanish means "this") for being "all things marisco."

Este also prides itself on its own garden, called Este Garden, in which the restaurant plants wild flowers and sustainable vegetables. The vegetables grown in the garden supply both Este and Nuñez's first restaurant, Suerte. Este recently celebrated its one-year anniversary after opening in October 2022.

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I've yet to try it but it looks to be good. Also, don't shoot the messenger. Thanks.